Part 4 – Minoans of Zakros,
Kato Zakros and Sitia
At the far eastern end of Crete lies another ancient Minoan ruin, the remains of the Palace of Zakros, one of the largest complexes of the Minoans. As mentioned before, these ‘palaces’ were built as administrative centres, serving both a functional and symbolic purpose. They served as a residence of the ruler, a centre for control over their domain, and a location of ostentatious display of wealth and power. The largest was Knossos, with Phaestos, Malia and Galata in central Crete, and Zakros and Petras in the east.
On this trip, after we left Heraklion (sometimes called Iraklion in Greece ), actually Ηράκλειο in Greek, pronounced Irάkleio, we decided to take a taxi to Sitia, a seaside village about half way from Heraklion to the east end. As luck would have it, the taxi driver spoke good English, in fact he was born and raised in Vancouver, and even knew about our village Tsawwassen and used to deliver pizzas for a local popular restaurant. How weird is that? His name was Marinos, and he worked for Yannis 24 hour taxi service. So it was a pleasant drive out to the city of Sitia, with a driver we could converse with in English, and was familiar with our home-base.
Eastern Crete
On the way to Sitia, we passed another Minoan Palace complex, the village of Gournia. This site was not discovered and excavated until 1901 to 1903 by the American female archaeologist, Harriet Boyd-Hawes. This tough lady was not only an archaeologist, but a relief worker, nurse, and professor, all during a period when either of these professions were almost unheard of for female and a lot more difficult than they are now. We had seen some of the site on a previous visit, so we did not stop this time.
Gournia site
Gournia ‘street’
Experts do not know what this site was called by the Minoans, so they named it ‘Gournia’ from all of the hollow vessels found over the site.
Gournia vessel
The drive took us past Agios Nicolaos (St. Nicholas), and the turn off to reach the island of Spinalonga. This is the island that was used as a leper colony for many years, featured in Victoria Hyslop’s book “The Island”. A great story and a very interesting and mysterious place to visit. Highly recommended! I wrote about this site in another ‘travel tale’ called “Spinalonga, the Island of Ghosts”.
Once we reached Sitia (emphasis on the second i, Sitía. (Greek – Σητεία), we checked into our hotel, the Itanos, run by Michalis Antonidakis. As usual, we were greeted enthusiastically and treated to a free drink and given a coupon for a free drink and dessert for each meal we had at the Thalassa taverna across the street on the beach.
View from our room
Our room overlooked the sea, and the many tavernas along the beach. We were only booked for one night this time, but planned on returning for another nine nights on our return trip from Kato Zakros. The first thing we did was arrange a rental car for the next week, as Kato Zakros did not have bus or taxi service handy. We contacted Ifegenia car rental and rented a Honda hybrid automatic, a great little car to drive.
We chose to travel this end of the island, mainly to stay in the little seaside village of ‘Kato Zakros’, or lower Zakros.
Kato Zakros
This village is basically one short street, a few hundred metres long, following the beach, with tavernas scattered the entire length. Just tavernas, no mini-markets, no souvenir shops, no banks, or any other forms of commerce. The nearest grocery store was in a village of Zakros, a few miles up the road, so we loaded up with a few groceries before we left Sitia at the “Kritikos” super market at the edge of town..
I must say however, Kato Zakros did have rooms to rent, so the entire village is a tourist magnet for lovers of the beach and solitude, no night life here! The Aegean and Libyan Seas meet here, stretching out to the east and south, providing the village gorgeous beaches and incredible sunrises each day. There are a few larger apartments back from the beach to offer more accommodation choices, but vacancy is very limited because of the popularity of the area.
Athena Rooms
Our rental car at Athena Rooms
Our accommodation was “Athena Rooms”, a lovely little room overlooking the sea, with its own little patio and another larger lounge patio at the end of the building, again, overlooking the sea.
Local “Modern Minoan” stonework
Once we found our rooms and got settled in, a well appointed room with ‘flow through ventilation, so we most likely would not need AC. We decided it was time for a G&T on our little patio. Everything was stone, either marble or a local limestone. I noticed they used it in many creative ways, and even did little art work with it. I suppose the Minoan art still exerts a genetic influence of the people of today?
Larger Patio overlooking the sea
Path down to the beach
The largest taverna in town was the Akrogiali Taverna, right at the entrance to the village ‘main’ street. It was a typical Greek taverna, with a wood fired barbecue oven at the entrance, which was fired up every day roasting a side of lamb, pork, chickens, or some other succulent roast. As you walked down the street, the enticing aroma of these roasted treats draws you closer to the taverna, so you are hungry and ready for your meal before you even enter.
Diana across from the Akrogiali Taverna
(Note large barbecue oven on the right of photo, just one of several used by this taverna)
Once at the entrance, we were greeted enthusiastically by Niko, the owner, or sometimes Georgiou, a diminutive fellow running around, bussing the tables and pouring more wine. The generous tip I left him the first night must have made an impression, because each time we arrived for dinner, or even if we walked by on the street to go to another taverna, he would rush out and greet us, wishing us both well, all in Greek.
The dinner that first night was roast lamb with orzo, delicious, followed with free raki and dessert after. After our long drive, explorations and a great meal, I managed to sleep for over 12 hours that night! Something almost unheard of for me.
Back at our room the next day, we met the owner and his wife, Talia and Manoli. I played a short recording I had of a cicada on our pergola, which I had recorded while I was sitting on the patio. I suppose it was hot enough that day and this little cicada began to sound off, giving me a chance to record him. I don’t think our hosts were impressed as they most likely hear the cicadas almost every day. I still have that recording on my phone, for anyone at home who hasn’t heard a cicada. When talking with Manoli, he recommended another taverna, the ‘O Glaros’, or ‘the Seagull’. I think the taverna was owned by a relative.
That evening we walked further along the beach to find another taverna. It was not a difficult task, as that was all there was in this village, tavernas on both sides of the street, all along the beach.
We finally arrived at our destination, a little taverna with a picture of a seagull on the sign that read “O Glaros”. It was not even written in Greek, I suppose not to confuse the tourists.
Our table at ‘O Glaros’ taverna
A lovely little restaurant on the beach, with tables that were set up right down to the waters edge. The ‘waitress’ was a Scottish lady, Christina, who had lived in Kato Zakros for years, married to a Greek. Apparently she met her husband in Heraklion years ago, when he was in the army and working at a pizza place. We enjoyed the taverna, the delicious food, drinks and especially our encounter with a real “Shirley Valentine”. We returned the next morning for a hearty breakfast and more discussions with our ‘Shirley Valentine’, Christina, and more details about how she ended up in Kato Zakros.
Our visit to the ancient ruins of Zakros and the Minoan ‘Palace’, was diminished to a quick look at it from a distance.
Zakros Ruins
An in depth ‘visit’ would have involved a long walk from the edge of the site, and an entrance fee, all to walk around a series of excavations and piles of rocks, all in the hot Cretan sun. I was not feeling up to it and we decided to pack up and head back to Sitia, and the comfort of an air-conditioned room in our hotel by the beach.
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